Cusco: Ancient Inca Capital and Gateway to Machu Picchu

Cusco was the administrative and spiritual heart of the Inca Empire — a city of temples, plazas, and stone walls built to survive centuries. Today it operates as the main gateway to Machu Picchu and the trailhead for the Inca Trail, and holds some of South America’s most compelling archaeological sites within walking distance of its central square. At 3,400 metres above sea level, it demands respect: plan for acclimatisation before any serious activity.

Getting There

From Lima by air: The most common route. Flights depart Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport roughly every 90 minutes across the day and arrive at Alejandro Velasco Astete Airport (CUZ) approximately 1 hour 20 minutes later. LATAM, Sky Airline, and Star Perú operate this route. Book 4–6 weeks ahead for the best fares; expect approximately S/200–S/600 one-way as of 2026. The airport sits 5km south of the city centre — a taxi takes 20–30 minutes and costs approximately S/25–S/35.

From Puno by bus: Several companies run overnight and daytime services along the route (about 6 hours). Cruz del Sur and Inka Express offer the most reliable services, costing approximately S/45–S/90 one-way as of 2026. The Inka Express route includes stops at Andahuaylillas and La Raya pass. If you are arriving from Puno after visiting Lake Titicaca, this is the most popular overland connection.

From Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town) by train: PeruRail and Inca Rail connect Aguas Calientes to Cusco’s Poroy station (journey: approximately 3.5 hours) or to Ollantaytambo station (approximately 1.5 hours). Fares start at approximately USD 55 one-way in expedition class as of 2026.

Acclimatisation

Arrive, rest, and drink water. The first 24 hours should be low-effort — unpack, eat a light meal, and walk no further than the plaza. Most headaches ease after 48 hours. Pharmacies around the plaza sell acetazolamide (Diamox) without prescription; consult a doctor before use. Coca leaf tea is offered free at most hotels and genuinely helps mild symptoms.

Top Sights

Plaza de Armas — Cusco’s central square is flanked by the Cathedral (entry approximately S/30, open daily 10:00–18:00) and the church of La Compañía de Jesús. The Cathedral houses one of South America’s largest collections of colonial religious art, including a famous painting of the Last Supper featuring guinea pig as the centrepiece dish.

Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun) — The most important Inca temple, later partly demolished to build the Convent of Santo Domingo on top. Entry approximately S/15 (not included in the full Boleto Turístico, though the adjacent garden is). Open daily 08:30–17:30.

Sacsayhuamán — The massive Inca fortress above the city, built with stones weighing up to 300 tonnes. Entry included in the Boleto Turístico (approximately S/130 full circuit or S/70 partial as of 2026). Open daily 07:00–18:00. A 30-minute uphill walk from Plaza de Armas, or take a taxi for approximately S/10. For context on the broader Inca archaeological heritage around Cusco, see our guide to Sacsayhuamán and Cusco’s historic sites.

San Blas neighbourhood — The artisan quarter, a steep 10-minute walk from the plaza. White-washed walls, ceramic workshops, and the carved wooden pulpit of the San Blas church (entry included in full Boleto Turístico). Less crowded in the mornings.

Mercado de San Pedro — The main market, two blocks west of the plaza. Fresh produce, prepared foods, juice stalls, and souvenirs. Open daily from approximately 06:00–20:00. Free entry.

Where to Stay

Belmond Hotel Monasterio — Cusco’s most iconic hotel, housed in a 16th-century monastery around a stone courtyard. Rooms start at approximately USD 450 per night as of 2026. The hotel’s oxygenated air option (available on request) is genuinely useful for altitude-sensitive guests. Located one block from Plaza de Armas.

Palacio del Inka, a Luxury Collection Hotel — Colonial mansion with Inca stonework walls, glass-floored rooms over archaeological ruins, and a rooftop terrace. Rates start at approximately USD 280 per night as of 2026. On Plazoleta Santo Domingo, 5 minutes’ walk from the plaza.

Casa Andina Premium Cusco — Mid-range comfort in an 18th-century building. Standard rooms from approximately USD 110–USD 160 per night as of 2026. Located on Calle Santa Catalina Ancha; breakfast included.

Tierra Viva Cusco Plaza — Reliable mid-range option one block from the main square. Rooms from approximately USD 70–USD 100 per night as of 2026. Clean, simple, and helpful staff.

Loki Hostel Cusco — The best-known budget option, popular with backpackers. Dorm beds from approximately USD 12–USD 18 per night as of 2026. Bar on-site; lively atmosphere; book ahead in high season.

Where to Eat

Central Cusco — Not to be confused with the Lima flagship, this Cusco venture from the same team serves contemporary Andean cuisine using high-altitude ingredients. Expect to pay approximately S/80–S/140 per person for a full meal as of 2026. Reservations essential.

Chicha por Gastón Acurio — Gastón Acurio’s Cusco restaurant on Plaza Regocijo focuses on Andean classics done well: rocoto relleno, slow-braised lamb, and excellent pisco sours. Mains approximately S/45–S/75 per person as of 2026. Busy at lunch; arrive before 13:00 for a table without waiting.

Morena Peruvian Kitchen — Reliable mid-range spot on San Agustín serving lomo saltado, ceviche, and cuy (guinea pig). Lunch menus (menú del día) available for approximately S/20–S/30 as of 2026. Popular with local workers and travellers alike.

Mercado de San Pedro food stalls — The cheapest and most authentic option. Fresh juices for approximately S/3, caldo de gallina (chicken broth) for S/8, and full cooked meals for S/12–S/18 as of 2026. Arrive before 13:00 for the best selection.

Jack’s Café — Longstanding travellers’ favourite on Choquechaka offering proper breakfasts, good filter coffee, and reliable Wi-Fi. Breakfast and lunch dishes approximately S/25–S/45 as of 2026.

Day Trips from Cusco

The Sacred Valley (Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero) is best done as a day trip or en route to Machu Picchu. Entry to the Sacred Valley archaeological sites requires the Boleto Turístico. Organised day tours depart from Plaza de Armas from approximately USD 25–USD 45 per person as of 2026.

Machu Picchu requires at least one overnight stay in Aguas Calientes or an early train departure from Cusco’s Poroy station. The combined entry (Machu Picchu site + bus from Aguas Calientes) costs approximately USD 65–USD 80 per person as of 2026, depending on the circuit chosen. Tickets sell out weeks ahead; book at machupicchutickets.gob.pe. For a deeper look at the site’s history and what to prioritise inside, see our Machu Picchu history and visitor guide.

Practical Information

Currency: Soles (S/). ATMs on and around Plaza de Armas. Use bank ATMs rather than street exchange bureaux.

Safety: The city centre is generally safe in daylight. After dark, use registered taxis (called via phone or app) rather than hailing from the street. Keep valuables in hotel safes.

Language: Spanish is the official language; Quechua is widely spoken. Most tourist-facing businesses have English-speaking staff.

Medical: Clinics near the plaza treat altitude sickness and standard travel illnesses. Hospital Regional del Cusco (Avenida de la Cultura) is the main public hospital.